Making Basic Saxon/Viking Male Clothing (Version 1.0 29/7/2010)
Introduction
This document outlines the basic patterns and styles of Saxon and Viking clothing as discussed in Flosi's interim kit guide. These patterns are aimed at kitting new members from the rank of thrall to the Rank of Gestir. If an item isn't in this guide, you probably can't wear it at your rank - though any item you buy should probably be vetted by the Authenticity Thegn (Flosi) just in case!
For those who wish to research further, the recommended reading is at the end of the section, but two items in particular are key to this kit guide: Viking Clothing [Ewig, T] and Dress in Anglo-Saxon England [Owen-Crocker, G R.].
Stitching
For construction, the 'running-stitch' is the most common using a 'french seam' effect, with the 'overcast' stitch used in hemming (Blanket stitch is also acceptable). It's perfectly fine to use a sewing machine with cotton thread as long as the stitching isn't apparent unless someone looks very closely at the garment. Hand-stitching the hem is preferable though, and you should use wool/linen thread with a max diametre of 1.5mm. The hem is usually double folded or rolled.
Running stitch:
Overcast:
Under-garments
Textiles
For undergarments you should use 100% linen, either undyed (natural grey, or cream) or in a washed out 'off-white' colour. Before you buy your textiles, check the weave. the simplest, and most common weave of the saxon age was the 'tabby' weave and it looks like a collection of squares:
Always ask to make sure it's a natural fibre, don't get polyester mixes ever. Cotton-linen mixes are acceptable for undergarments but not encouraged.
Under-scyrte (under shirt)
Flosi describes this as:
an undergarment that forms a base layer over which other garments are worn. It functions in a similar way to a modern vest, but with sleeves. It also serves to keep the skin out of contact with the woollen kyrtle, preventing irritation.
The undershirt is a t-shirt shaped garment that can be knee length (better for early periods) or just below the waist (which seems to be more prevalent in the 10th century onwards). Longer shirts are split down the sides from the waist to the bottom of the garment. Though shaped like a t-shirt, the sleeves are long. In earlier period finds the sleeves are long enough to cover the hand so that the material can be folded at the cuff or crumpled up at the wrist. Sleeves can be quite tight fitting. Alternatively, it can be like a vest and have no sleeves at all.
(Priest-Dorman , C)
The neck hole is usually a simple semi-circle, but square holes are acceptable. Another pattern is a 'keyhole' where the front is split vertically and 'laced' up with thread/thonging. (An illustration neck holes for garments is included later in the document).
You'll need 1 1/2 - 2m of linen for this, depending on the length.
Brec (Shorts)
Theses are basically like modern day shorts with a drawstring waist band that you tie at the front, rather than elastic!
Outer-garments
kyrtle (over shirt/tunic)
The kyrtle follows the same basic construction techniques as the under-shirt, but should be made from wool.
The Kyrtle is usually longer than the under-shirt. It doesn't have to be split at the sides. Instead these gaps can be filled with gores to create a baggy garment.
Felted wool is allowed as are some checkered patterns, but you should provide a sample for the Authenticity Thegn to see before purchasing any. The wool tunic can be dyed in washed out colours such as light yellows/bague/creams, a browny-orange colour, or a algae-like green or it can be natural brown or grey. The weave should be tabby, or 2x2 twill:
If included, the gores, at entry level ranks, should be the same colour as the rest of the garment.
When hemming the garment, limited decoration can be used: use different colour wool thread in a darker contrasting colour.
The neckline of the tunic can be any of circle, square, keyhole or v-neck and a colour trim may be used (wool). Simply use a strip of contrasting color in a darker shade (dyed). Do not use Purple, Red or Blue, especially not darker shades.
You'll need about 2m of wool fabric to make this.
Hose & Trousers
Hose, and Trousers are the basic leg garments of the period. Both are tightly fitted towards the ankle. Hose are tubes of wool tied to the waistband of the shorts and suspended, trousers are the same construction as the shorts but longer (similar to modern trousers).
(
Trousers, Vikings!)
Cloak
The cloak is a large woolen cowl that should cover all of your body for those long cold nights! A basic cloak is a hemmed, rectangle of wool, which can be of 2x2 twill or herringbone.
It is clasped/pinned at the shoulder (right shoulder, unless you're left handed!). Alternatively, it can be a semi-circle of with the curved side at the bottom when it is pinned. you'll likely need about 3m of material, and it can be thick wool (undyed). You may use a simple iron cloak pin (check with Authentiicty) or leather thonging.
Headwear, Footwear & Accessories
Belt/Waist Tie
At the very low end of the spectrum, a length of rope or cloth can be tied around the waist to hitch up your kyrtle. A leather belt is preferable. The belt should be between 3/4" and 1" wide with a simple leather tie (split the belt at the end to get two 'strings' and punch a hole in the opposite end) or an iron/brass buckle. You don't need a strap end, though it is allowed as long as it matches the material of the buckle. (Again, show the Authenticity Thegn the buckle before you buy). The belt is usually long enough to leave 10-16" left over after buckling.
The leather should be brown and vegetable tanned. If the leather is shiny, it's probably chrome tanned and not suitable. No black leather.
Leg Bindings/Winingas/Putees
Leg bindings are cloth strips that wrap around the calf and fasten just below the knee. They function as support and also to protect the trousers from wear, and have been used in conflicts as recent as the world wars.
The cloth strips should be 2-3" thick and around 12' (feet) long and made of wool (natural dye). They are wrapped around the calf starting at the ankle (or round the foot) and tying around the back of the knee with thonging, cloth or with a clasp made from iron/brass/copper.
Hood/Hat
Socks
You may have loosely woven, woolen tube (ankle) socks. Socks are undyed/natural coloured.
Shoes
Shoes are an essential piece of kit. While you can go bare foot, you will need shoes to progress through the ranks and they really do help in the cold and wet conditions you're likely to suffer! Turn Shoes or Ankle boots are acceptable. Single or double toggles are allowed - three is way out.
Available shoe designs:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SLIST2.HTM
Seax
You must have a Seax (either sharp/combat ready - or both). A seax is a single edged blade with a wooden or antler handle. The seax must have a leather sheaf that can be worn from the belt, held by a loop or with thonging. Vikings traditionally wore the sheaf blade up. Ask to see these items at training.
Pouch
You may wear a leather/woolen drawstring pouch.
Jewellery
You may wear a single pendant as a saxon/viking peasant. For saxons this should be a cross/crucifix in wood, bronze or pewter. Early period vikings may have a Thor's hammer (you may be required to hide it/take it off for later period events. Please check the provenance for anything you buy - No pendants before the 10th century, or after 1100AD. Avoid 'eastern' (swedish, german, byzantine/rus items).
Necklines
References/Reading
http://www.aeans.org/articles/ascloak.shtml
2010 Alan Kael Ball
